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A conversation on Food, Climate and Change
We wanted to know how incorporating scientific knowledge into our food philosophy at ARKET Café can help us promote a better way of eating for our health and the well-being of the planet
Read the latest blog from ARKET
A conversation on FOOD, CLIMATE AND CHANGE
Environment Line Gordon is an internationally recognised scientist and professor in Sustainability Science,
focusing on water, food and the biosphere. Our Café Head Chef Martin Berg visited her at Stockholm Resilience
Centre to talk about the importance of shifting towards more mindful food choices – in our everyday lives and in
the food industry at large.
We wanted to know how incorporating scientific knowledge into our food philosophy at ARKET Café can help
us promote a better way of eating for our health and the well-being of the planet. This conversation, alongside
other stories about why we care so much about food, and delicious recipes from
ARKET Cafés, is part of our brand new cookbook that will be released in winter 2021..
Question How does your work connect food and sustainability?
line
I started out as a biologist and wanted to work with issues that involved both nature and humans. The role
of the ecosystems in relation to humans and our welfare quickly leads to questions on farming and
cultivation, how we manage our water resources, and our negative impact on the ecosystems, with consequences
for society.
Most of my research has involved water, and the part water plays in the ecosystems and our
daily lives. 70% of all human water use go straight to food production, so my work became directly connected
to what we eat and how that affects our planet and society.
In the process, my work began to shift towards the food systems. It became essential to
dig deeper into how to produce high-quality, healthy food in amounts that suffice our needs and support and
sustain the environment at the same time. There are numerous exciting solutions, but we need to find ways to
cooperate between various scientific disciplines and between science and society to make it happen.
Martin
I’m a constantly curious person, eager to find new ways of thinking and doing things. In my profession, it’s
triggering to try out and present new ideas, like my directional change from ’fine dining’ and exclusive
food experiences to working with more accessible concepts that can impact many people in their everyday
lives.
I often felt that something was missing in the general sustainability work. We need people like Line that
highlight the question, do the scientific research, and clarify the issues: what must be done, what we need
to do more of, and what must stop. After that, my work begins. Based on science, I can focus my knowledge
and experience to create products or dishes that are both attractive and meet the demands of the environment
and our customers.
Question An ordinary day at work, what does this look like?
line
We know for a fact that we are alarmingly close to crossing limits of what our planet can handle before it
can no longer sustain human societies. We are aware of the consequences of losing our fantastic
biodiversity, the overuse of water and the increasing nitrogen and phosphorus loads in our waterways. With
that said, there are still so many things we can do to affect and create positive change.
A while ago, I participated in a project that gained a lot of attention. A study called the
EAT-Lancet Commission, where we worked closely with a
proposal for a more sustainable and healthy diet that is possible
to produce within the limits of our planet’s capacity. It resulted in a list of suggestions on how much we
should eat from different types of food, from vegetables, fruits and berries to legumes and nuts.
I
It can be seen as a scientific framework that needs to be put into practice, and it also needs to be
translated into meals that taste good.
Martin
To me, it’s mainly about curiosity and being open-minded. Meeting new people who work with entirely
different things really motivates me. The restaurant business can sometimes be a bit anxious, especially
when it comes to individual creativity and ideas. Someone else can always be noticed for an idea that you
initially served. Still, you can choose to think about it as a good thing, that you have inspired something
that might end up even better and more sustainable.
I believe in this way of working together to drive change. Suppose I’m looking for a specific product for
our kitchens. Instead of choosing from the existing supply, I can turn to both scientists and small food
suppliers and try to develop a new, noncompromising alternative that lives up to our and our customer’s
standards.
Question How is sustainability related to our health?
line
Today, two billion humans are overweight, which leads to various health conditions and diseases. At the same
time, 800 million humans suffer from hunger. By 2050, we will be about ten billion inhabitants coexisting on
this planet. How are we going to feed a population of that size when we already have stretched our climate
capacity? How can we produce food within the environmental limits in a more sustainable and healthy manner?
These types of questions formed the EAT- Lancet project. Our theory
shows that it is possible to combine
health and sustainability, but it takes fierce commitment to covert our food production and eating habits.
We must eat less animal products, especially red meat and eggs, and more vegetables and legumes. We need to
cut down on sugar.
Martin
In my work, I use my skills and experience to find new solutions and make healthier products and dishes more
appealing. Traditionally, there’s been a lot of focus on the chef as an individual performer, almost like a
rock star or an artist who enters the stage and does their thing. It’s been interesting to step over to the
more commercial side, trying to reach and connect with as many people as possible to inspire and set a good
example.
It’s probably not by creating an advanced all-fermented menu but to find a balance between what tastes good
and what does good. That includes the health aspect – it’s not the best idea to eat sweets or pastries every
day, but you can treat yourself with them every now and then.
'With that said, there are still so many things we can do to affect and create positive change.'
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